Santa Fe: The City Different
Santa Fe is a city born of a vibrant and complex interplay between Native American, Mexican and Spanish cultural influences, which makes it hard to define and totally unique.
Founded in 1610 by Spain, Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in the United States, beating the founding of the Mayflower Pilgrims’ Plymouth Colony by 10 years. There is archaeological evidence of a well-established Pueblo Bonito village at Chaco Canyon by 1050, and since 1692 control of the city has bounced between Spain, Mexico and, finally, the United States. Statehood came relatively late—in 1912, when the city was just over 300 years old.
While there’s something to love about New Mexico all year round, fall is Santa Fe’s season. At 7,300 feet above sea level, mountain nights bring a chill countered by the satisfying and singular smell of piñon wood burning in adobe fireplaces. Warm days come with the sun, its brightness mirrored by golden aspens glowing on the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It’s a magical time in the Land of Enchantment.
Stay
Inn of the Five Graces: If Santa Fe is the City Different, the Inn of the Five Graces is the Hotel Different. This captivating boutique hotel, in Barrio de Analco, the oldest residential neighborhood in the United States, is decadently designed in Afghan- and Tibetan-inspired style by the owners of the local import shop Seret & Sons. Once inside the iconic adobe walls of this once-neglected cluster of buildings, guests are treated to a gorgeous cacophony of vibrant tiles, fabrics, colors and patterns that feels like a land all its own. fivegraces.com
Hotel St. Francis: This spot is the oldest of Santa Fe’s historic hotels. Because of its age, the rooms are a bit smaller than more modern offerings, but one can really feel the history here. Collected Works, a favorite local bookstore, is just around the corner, and next door is the Gruet tasting room. The Wine Spectator has named Gruet’s sparkling wines among the “Top 100 Wines of the World,” yet most people are surprised to learn Gruet is a New Mexican winery. In fact, New Mexico’s first vines were established in 1629, about 196 years before Washington’s. hotelstfrancis.com
Four Seasons Rancho Encantado: Just a few miles outside Santa Fe, near the scenic village of Tesuque, the Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado caters to adventure seekers. Guests can join hikes or ride bikes on local trails, or book personalized excursions to nearby attractions including cliff dwellings or Georgia O’Keeffe’s studio in Abiquiu. And if the weather’s right, you can play in the powder of Ski Santa Fe. fourseasons.com/santafe
See
The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum: Though many people know Georgia O’Keeffe for her flowers, she was called the “Mother of American Modernism” for a reason. The museum crafts thought-provoking shows and programs that go beyond flowers—exploring the artist, her inspirations and those she has inspired. okeeffemuseum.org
Museum Hill: A free transit shuttle runs year-round to carry visitors from downtown to Museum Hill, just a few minutes away. A cluster of museums here is anchored by the Museum of International Folk Art, born of the collection of famed designer Alexander Girard. museumfoundation.org
Sky Railway: This train is credited with turning Santa Fe into the modern city it is today. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Santa Fe Southern ferried tourists and transplants into town, from presidents and movie stars to academics and artists. Thanks to local businesspeople, including Game of Thrones author, George R. R. Martin, the historic line and its restored train cars (plus an amazing, open-air flatbed car) are back in service for sunset and scenic rides. skyrailway.com
Savor
The Railyard: This bustling spot, which surrounds Santa Fe’s still-operating train depot, has a diverse set of offerings for all travelers. It’s the site of the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market which, during fall, runs Tuesdays and Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Unlike many farmers’ markets, all produce sold is certified locally grown in northern New Mexico. Also on offer are delicious baked goods and other treats like tamales and fry bread. If it’s not a market day, grab some New Mexican comida at Tomasita’s or a seasonally flavored scoop at craft ice creamery, La Lecheria. railyardsantafe.com
La Choza: In 1953, the Carswell family discovered the recipe for success when they opened the Shed just off downtown Santa Fe’s historic plaza. A beloved source for delicious chile, it quickly became so popular, a sister restaurant, La Choza, was opened. La Choza is where you’ll find locals trading stories at the bar while enjoying a cold beer and some hot chile. Try the green chile clam chowder, pozole and adovada, but whatever you choose, do NOT miss out on La Choza’s steaming hot sopaipillas. lachozasf.com
Horno: Legendary local culinary star David Sellars opened his bistro after a decade spent running the Street Food Institute, a nonprofit he founded to teach people the food truck biz. Horno (the Spanish word for outdoor adobe ovens used by Native Americans) bills itself as “a gastropub where street food meets indoor dining.” It has quickly become a local favorite thanks to quality service and a diverse menu offering creative dishes ranging from dumplings and focaccia to Sellars’s award-winning burger. hornorestaurant.com
Shop
Santa Fe Dry Goods: Even the most experienced international shopper will appreciate this 40-year-old boutique on the edge of Santa Fe’s central plaza. As a showcase for global fashion, Santa Fe Dry Goods curates fine clothing from modern designers inspired by authenticity, innovation and timeless beauty. santafedrygoods.com
Shiprock: A gallery, shop and museum, Shiprock focuses on the best of vintage and modern Navajo blankets, Native American jewelry and Pueblo pottery, coupled with a mid-century modern aesthetic. It is one of Santa Fe’s most original shopping experiences and a must-visit for anyone interested in historic and contemporary Navajo art. shiprocksantafe.com
Canyon Road: Canyon Road is popular for its art, but its shopping is just as stellar. Do not pass by Cielo Handcrafted, a family-run cooperative of crafts, clothing and jewelry by local makers including the talented Gloria Olazabal. If you’d like to add a little Santa Fe to your aesthetic, visit Homefrocks, where owner and designer Nancy Traugott creates dreamy, organic threads of botanically dyed linens and velvets. visitcanyonroad.com
Spa
Ten Thousand Waves: It’s hard to describe Ten Thousand Waves. It’s a spa with massage and other services, soaking pools, a restaurant and some very special lodging options. It’s also likely the most authentic Japanese spa experience outside of Japan. It’s located a short ten-minute drive from downtown Santa Fe, but you’ll swear you’re in the mountains of Japan. tenthousandwaves.com
Ojo Caliente and Ojo Santa Fe: The “original” Ojo is a scenic one-hour drive north of Santa Fe. The thermal springs that feed the various pools here range in mineral content and temperature and were once sacred places for local Native Americans. These days, Ojo Caliente is more of a day-visit for travelers looking for a refresh, but for those looking for a longer respite, the Posi and Cliffside suites offer private pools for the ultimate relaxation. More retreat than spa, in-town Ojo Santa Fe offers fine baths for soaking but is centered more on adventure and play than many spas. Lodging guests can take part in activities ranging from archery and ceramics to yoga and hiking—there’s even a puppy pen where you can cuddle with pups from the local shelter as they await their furever homes. ojosparesorts.com
Chile 101
Life in New Mexico—not merely the cuisine—revolves around chile. Though the state is most famous for chile grown in the Hatch Valley, you can’t go wrong with those from other locales such as Socorro or Chimayo. The heat varies from mild to extra hot, and everyone has an opinion on which farm produces the best crop.
In the fall you’re likely to spy bushels of green chile being roasted in big spinning barrels at farmers’ markets, grocery stores and roadside stands. Red chile, found as dried pods or powder, is ripened green chile and the key component of the ubiquitous ristras seen hanging in the sun.
Order almost anything at most restaurants (even fast-food chains) and you’ll have the choice of red or green chile sauce drizzled over it or stuffed in it. Red has a lovely spicy/sweet flavor, whereas green has a verdant taste with a touch of smokiness from the roasting process. Until you’re sure which one you like better, order “Christmas” to get a little of both and your server won’t even blink an eye.
